MWP Project: North American B-25J Mitchell "Lady Lil" 1/32 scale

This MWP project is based on the kit produced a few years ago by Hong Kong Models in 1:32 scale:








Let's open the kit:











and the chosen version, 'Lady Lil', was purchased separately with the ZotZ Decals set:









The model was equipped with other accessories as illustrated below:

Let's resume the preparatory work for the metal coating, that is, let's proceed with the assembly, the application of details and self-constructions relating to the cockpit and the internal part of the fuselage:
Let's start preparing the various (internal) components that will be assembled and fixed on the two half-fuselases, floor and column of the main turret, radio system, ventral access








the interested parts are improved with the detail set from Eduard BigEd (photo-etched & transparent masks):









with the same method, we proceed with the bulkheads of the tail machine gunner's position





with the help of a folder, we assemble the photo-etched parts that will detail the interested part:
















Competing optional parts for cockpit seat assembly:




HGW: Detail set:



Eduard: detail set (for the backrests):



work carried out ad hoc with the folder:





work progress: coloring and wear (weathering)







Instrument panel : Eduard set + insertion of glossy acetate film (slide simulation)

Eduard set: The instrument panel (like everything else in the detail set) is superbly crafted with color and detail
unparalleled.



I cut out a piece of glossy acetate film taking the shape of the instrument panel:



I check that the film is correctly cropped (there must be no overflows or deficiencies to obtain a good result)

at this point, I can apply and fix the panels with the film inserted in the middle:



I fixed the instrument panel to the floor and completed it with the pedals which were detailed with the North American symbols as well as various other control instruments and various levers (Eduard Big Ed). I assemble and fix the seat belts made of mocro fibre/laser by HGW:









Editing control columns and detail (scratch building):





I modify the original parts of the kit by wanting to apply the firing buttons as represented by the photo of the original shown above purely for technical and illustrative reference. I proceed like this:

I get two bolts (of the right size) from the specific Meng resin set (various scales) after having previously drilled them with the micro drill:



I gently lift them with the tip of the scalpel:



the tiny bolts (which will be the base of the firing buttons) are now ready to be fixed to the interested part:





I collect a tiny drop of cyanoacrylic with the appropriate dispenser and place it on the affected part:





with a waxy pencil, I secure the tiny bolt which I will immediately glue onto the already ready interested part:





as if by magic, now our fire button begins to take shape:



I cut a very small segment of tubular Strip Styrene to the size that I will insert inside the newly created bolt:



what the modified part with the fire button looks like now:



In the same way, I prepare the electrical connections to control the front machine guns:











We have reached the end of this session:





That's all for now. See you next time and as always, great modeling everyone.

Giorgio

Hello everyone.

In this update we will deal with:

BOMBS AND BOMBS

Let's start by assembling the bombs (excellent from kits) trying to seal them as best as possible with putty (Mr. Surfacer 1200 spray) and applying the photo-etched parts from the BigEd and styrene set.






Using flat, square-tipped tweezers, I delicately open the flaps of the photo-etched fans



In this photo you can see the (round) styrene strips applied to the BigEd photo-etched crowns as a function of the directional propeller hub.



The bombs are now ready to be colored and aged:



Fixed with PataFix,  the bombs complete with photo-etched and adequately sealed parts, on a support suitable to be rotated by hand.



RB Productions: masking strips curved:









coloring and aging:







For the directional propeller, I used a mix of colors (Silver Vallejo 30% and Tamya gold 70%)










BOMBE COMPARTMENT: Application of Eduard BiEd photo-etchings and detail:


First, I get the photo-etched parts from the Eduard BigEd detail set























Color of the 'bomb bay' cabin:

Once the various photo-etched parts have been prepared (folded) and applied to the bulkheads of the bomb bay cabin, I move on to coloring































We have reached the end of this session: see you next time and as always, great modeling for everyone.

Giorgio

The test gave a positive result in the sense that all the parts fit together perfectly and therefore we can proceed with the further interventions:

nose gear assembly - Scale Aircraft Conversions conversion set - addition of reloading weights



original vs. metal set:

from the left, the original bow landing gear and on the right, the one made of white metal:







Addition of reloading sinkers (approx. 80 g)

precisely to be able to have more options in case of limited space or insertion difficulties.



In this case, I made a mixer of different carats to reach the required weight:








Tail gunner's position:

Detail set: Eduard BigEd and for seat belts: HGW microfibre & laser











tail gunner position: test to fit:








Preparation of lateral machine gun positions:

creation of the weapon supports and the support base (absent in the original):

before:





after: scratch building of the ribs, supports and bases, application of the detail sets.




















external view:








ending wors/b]:





Application of further details on the internal part before the final closure of the fuselage:








Cockpit gallery :























































bombs bay gallery:






































Final fuselage closure test:
































The test was successful and the model can be definitively closed.


Preparing the model for the MWP metal coating procedure:




- model without detection:





- model with detection of all the information contained, after washing based on Mussini 'Asphalt' oil/resin:



The following photo gallery illustrates what and how much information we will have to collect and replicate during the cloning phase of the panels including the[b] rivets which apparently number more than 500,000!!!


























































This session is over and as always, I wish everyone very good
Giorgio

The following illustrations will undoubtedly clarify the concept further:





Having made these simple but necessary premises, let's get to work:

First of all, we will get some self-adhesive aluminum tape (they can be found in hardware stores, some Brico Centers or online) accompanied by  protective film, IT IS ESSENTIAL!!!



Compatibility and scale TEST:







In our case, I performed the test with three different types of riveters 1/32 standard, 1/32 large (1/32-1/24) and a mix 1/32 - 1/48 all with single wheel (only one wire of riveting)



here I also added a standard 1/48 scale riveter:




Riveter and punch test:
Even the punching machines must respect the reference scale of the model: 1/32
I tested the punch with two types of tips (in 1/32 scale) to understand the most compliant one:





Let's see six essential steps illustrated to understand the MWP technique together:


1- 'Panel cloning' process: write with pencil on transparent, opaque and self-adhesive film for A/4 size labels (3M type)



2- Rewriting of all the information contained on the original panels (lines, doors, riveting and punching, etc.):



3. Check for compatibility, coincidence with the original panel and clone (film) recovery:



4-Fixing the clone (film) on the aluminum tape and performing the roller heat transfer (MWP) process



5-Panel writing process (riveting, punching, lines, etc.)



6-Conclusion of the procedure with contextual control of the correctness of the installation, absence of errors, defects (wrinkles, scratches and curls) correspondence of the cloned panels with the originals complete with all the information.



for example only!:




The curvilinear, an indispensable tool for dealing with more complex and precise coverings:









End this session here. As always, I wish everyone very good modeling

Giorgio

We continue with the MWP procedure or the metal coating of the model.

As explained previously, now we can really understand the importance of the oil wash to highlight all the information that we will have to copy onto the opaque transparent film.


























INREPLACEMENT OPERATION: Procedure in case of incorrect cutting and/or installation of the panel:































Now the panel is perfect and the covering is correct:




......the procedure continues and hopefully without further problems:













MWP - execution technique: first I cover the internal panels while the outermost ones, which will close the parts, will be covered only when we have glued them:


























Oxidation of Eduard photoetchings ( machine guns ):

Hello everyone,
I open this new update regarding the 'lady Lil' project. We are proceeding with the assembly of the nose Strafer of the B-25 J in the armed version. Despite the good detail guaranteed by the HK Models kit, also for this section (on sight) I relied on the detail set proposed by Eduard and included in the 'Big Ed' envelope optionally purchased separately.
Floor preparation (ammo bay):

First of all, once I have studied the PE details (photo etches) of the Eduard, which will have to replace or interact with the kit, I proceed with the necessary modifications preparatory to the final assembly work.
I delete the ammunition boxes to allow the insertion of detailed ones.
The support bulkhead will also have to be replaced with the PE one.





I define the perimeter of the base with a light riveting scaled 1/32 and then proceed with a small insertion test (which I always do for all the sections).



I check the various differences in detail and size between the kit's machine gun support and the Eduard one: the images speak for themselves.









Final differences on the Eduard set and HK models kit:



Assembling the Eduard set:

Once the appropriate analyzes have been carried out, I proceed with the assembly of the detail set using my trusty folder, patiently preparing all the necessary pieces and taking particular care not to ruin, even accidentally or involuntarily, the splendid photo-engravings of the finely engraved tape (ammunition) drawers. and  pre-colored.




The chests of drawers or boxes are also equipped with closing hooks (very delicate) and handles for extraction during resetting.
The attachment details of the side panels are fixed on the attachment bulkhead to the fuselage



The latter are pre-treated for the selective elimination of approximately ten extractors (small round bubbles attached to the mold remaining after cutting during factory processing): to carry out this delicate but necessary operation (if we intend to show the open compartment) I first served with a micro cutter at variable speed and with a round frosted tip engraver so as to be able to effectively and quickly 'erase' the unsightly bubbles in relief and finally, going over the panel with an angular micro abrasive support capable of reaching in all recesses to homogenize the work.





The final work was carried out with a small manual grinder capable of reaching the most hidden and difficult to treat recesses:



The closure of the panels of the HK kit (like the other parts assembled so far) is perfect from every point of view and very detailed both outside and inside:



Upon completion, I applied a tiny amount of cream polish to smooth the panels. After having carefully cleaned them with a cotton swab, I sprayed a very light glaze of matt Vallejo black for primer use to give greater volume and prominence to the panels with the subsequent interior green color lightly added with matt white, both Vallejo Air acrylic colours.


In the end, with a mix of Interior green and white, I 'highlighted' the internal walls of the weapons compartment closing panels.
The differences in detail proposed on the internal bulkheads from the Eduard set with those of the HK kit are further illustrated:



Per l'esterno, ho applicato un paio di leggere passate di giallo Tamya debitamente molto diluito.







While I was waiting for the panels to dry completely to be able to proceed with the insertion of the Eduard photo-etched parts, I covered the armored panels according to the MWP (Metal Work Panels) technique and finally applied the punchings.







After cutting an adequate portion of ultra-thin and self-adhesive aluminum tape, I applied a light brushing with medium/fine steel wool to obtain a matt finish useful for absorbing the metal polish cream in order to clean and remove any scratches or unwanted signs. To make the color uniform I carried out a small wash of the Mussini 'Asphalt' resin/oil mix capable of highlighting the punching and other information present on the reinforced panel.











Finally, I sprayed a suitable quantity of delayed fixing spray glue (3M Display Mount) on the back of the reinforced panels to allow me to ensure the correct position of the panels and therefore be able to intervene (without any damage) in the event of incorrect installation.
Last, but not least, I prepared the ammunition tapes superbly made by Eduard in photogravure:
this was certainly the most challenging intervention of the present session. The tape holders were colored with a Vallejo matt black pre-treatment and defined with Alclad II Chrome.
The greatest difficulty is given by the 'folding' of the ribbon which often risks breaking due to the fragility of the photoengravings. However, with a lot of attention and care, I also completed this session.



































Fixation test of the frontal machine guns and alignment with the body placed inside the ammunition compartment:



Before concluding, I would like to spend a few words on the test of fixing the frontal machine guns (eight) adequately prepared well in advance as explained in the Update 5 session of 04-03-2018 of this same thread.
In fact, having to fix the original machine guns of the kit but covered with the perforated grids made in PE by Eduard, I considered it essential to proceed with a check aimed at both the correct position of the weapons inside the body with the alignment of the symmetrically placed fire outlets on the nose taking into account that, as illustrated in this session, the entire structure carrying the entire machine gun body and supporting ammunition belts has been replaced with the photo-etched one proposed by Eduard. It is therefore logical to test the compatibility and correct position of the weapons.
As regards the entry holes of the fire outlets located on the muzzle, given that the machine guns take up more space than the original ones in the kit (due to the grid coating of the photo-etched parts), it was necessary to slightly dilate the entry holes with the special quadrangular fillers while for the internal alignment, I had to correct the positioning of the two upper weapons as they were not correctly aligned to the shooting position.











Coloring and application of the optional Zotz decals set:

At this point, I can proceed with the coloring of the muzzle and the application of the important and distinctive decals of the Zotz set in version no. 44-29577 'Lady Lil' 498th BS 'Falcons', 345th BG 'Air Apaches' 5th AF, Philippines,May 1945.
I prepare the nose of the B-25 by closing the side panels (I don't fix the closing/opening hinges) by applying patafix to the inside to ensure closure during coloring: yellow is terrible to remove!
I apply a first coat (primer) with a thin, very diluted spray of Valleyo white (matt) to help the yellow color cling correctly to the affected parts.
I refill the airbrush (in this case, I used a simple but always excellent, double action Paasche 'Raptor') with Tamya yellow acrylic matt (in my humble opinion, one of the best for both coverage and hold) and proceed as per program obtaining a perfect result.
From this moment on, a complex phase of colouring, masking and application of the decals (Falcons Face) begins.
Fortunately, the Zotz set comes in handy by providing a very convenient masking of the Falcons Face which, among other things, was useful for recreating the front metal mask, in conformity with the fuselage and therefore treated with the usual MWP (Metal Work) metal coating technique Panels).

creation of the front mask with MWP procedure:













b]front mask in MWP:[/b]



After applying the masking, I color the upper part (top) of the muzzle, with USAF olive drab Vallejo Air. Once the masking has been removed, I delicately proceed with the application of the decals.










Regarding the quality of the decals in question, nothing to complain about, simply fantastic, colors adhering to the real model and sufficiently robust.
Another matter concerns the application of the same having to 'work' on a curved surface and in the presence of numerous protuberances, reinforced panels, doors etc. In my case then, the work is further complicated by wanting to take advantage of the option of opening at least one weapons compartment.
This means having to intervene surgically with a very sharp scalpel and cut the decals during application (which is not always easy). Given the design and the need to overlap the decals, I can guarantee that the difficulty was truly high. To obtain the result you see, I had to apply several manual cutting interventions to correctly shape the decals and apply small coloring interventions on the damaged or detached parts (fortunately very few).
Now that this work is finished, I take a long sigh before proceeding to the classic final polishing and mattifying treatment.

Polishing and subsequent matting of the decals:

Applying the decals as previously mentioned was not a walk in the park and since in this case there is also the overlapping of decals, I am thinking above all of 'Lady Lil' whose name, incidentally, was given by the B-25 pilot to his girlfriend but reproducing a subject designed by the legendary 'King of PinUps' Alberto Vargas for the 1945 calendar,



the risk of 'silvering' is around the corner, which is why I favored a passage with Future's airbrush (wax) to obtain the most shiny and smooth finish with quick drying. I then applied a simple swipe of Matt Vallejo diluted at 30% and I obtained the result I wanted.

Test of conformity with the original: problems detected and resolved:


Comparing the rare images of the original subject, I noticed some differences between the HK kit and the chosen 'lady Lil' version. Meanwhile I had to eliminate the two side air vents located at the beginning of the reinforced panels. This is a simple plastering and painting job.
More complicated, and it is really strange that I had missed it before applying the decals, the evident movement of the air intakes, both located on the panels of the armament compartment which, compared to the HK kit, are placed approximately half and in any case before the hawk's eye.
Without hesitation, with an ultra-thin hacksaw with a long, soft blade, I cut off the two air vents of the kit at the base (to keep their shape and scale intact), reducing damage to a minimum: it involves very light liquid grouting and subsequent touch-up with an ultra-fine brush.
Once the air vents have been eliminated from the incorrect position, I determine the new position by adjusting with the original photos and therefore noting the new coordinates on both panels with a small mark.
At this point, with a microdrill, I make two small oblique holes as provided in the original kit. I finish the operation by gluing the air intakes obtained from the kit in the new location and position in accordance with the original.
Now I proceed to adjust the internal part of the correct panels accordingly by recreating two small internal frames with the classic thin styrene. The internal part of the kit is completely filled, lined with ultra-thin sheet metal and finally colored with interior green.
All I have to do is pre-color the new vents white and make everything uniform with Tamya yellow. Once this work is finished, I quickly and precisely touch up the micrograzes caused by the cuts previously made, obtaining the result that you can see at the end of the wip.

Original pic of the  B-25-J "Strafer" version "Lady Lil" 498th Bs, "Falcons", 345th Bomber Group "Air Apaches" 5th AF:





The movement of the forward air intakes compared to those of the HK kit is quite evident: modification carried out.

This illustration shows how the 'Lady Lil' version shown above did not have the additional air intakes circled in white and in fact provided in the HK kit: they have been removed from the model.





















versione riveduta e corretta:

















Unfortunately, those who do modeling know, these 'trouble' shouldn't happen but having missed the comparison before applying the decals, I can only feel sorry for myself and proceed accordingly. Of course, I could have pretended nothing had happened but on a model of this scope and work, such a discrepancy is not really acceptable, I didn't accept it and I'm happy to have resolved it as best I could.
Now I will simply have to check the overall work with daylight for any defects or coloring errors and proceed with their simultaneous elimination.

That's all for now. See you next time and as always, great modeling everyon
Giorgio

We left off about two years ago with the correction of the nose (for the Lady lil version) or moving the two air intakes a little further upstream as required by the real model.

Here we will now deal with the wing surfaces and their treatment MWP: PANEL CLONING PROCESS




























































Final result of the coating performed with self-adhesive aluminum tape:








applicazione delle luci di navigazione :








Panel matting procedure through brushing with ultrafine steel wool '00 00' and oil/resin washing (weathering)













final result:








application of decals (Zotz optional set) with polishing (Future wax)





Test to fit: let's just try to fix (not glue)  the wings for an 'on the fly' check!! Result: OK





























Engines, exhausts, nose, detail, color and covering:








































Modification to be made to the flabella re-entry pins: drill the support plate, create a thin base to allow the support of new metal pins.













pre-coloring of the exhausts with Shift Metal colors from the Chameleon series with multiple toning (for simulation of the variation in the color of the metal at different temperatures)



























Here is the modification made (holes) to allow the replacement of the metal flabella re-entry pins:







modification of the flabella pins performed:





Covering of the nacelles, aging and oxidation - application of details and self-construction of the right engine terminal compartment :























replacement of landing gear and wheels with Brassin (Eduard) & Scale Aircraft Conversions accessories





fixing arms with Bondic UV:







Edit details with metal pins and tubes (Albion):





detail where it is possible to glimpse part of the self-built engine and connections











modified dashboard detail:





modification of emergency access hatch and side windows, cladding and detail (MWP)

original clearcoat from the kit:



performing emergency access opening:















Final assembly and application of the last details:









I thank all visitors for their attention and I look forward to seeing you at the gallery of the completed model on the appropriate page of the site.
Enjoy:


Giorgio